Pacific Hardwoods
Hardwood Flooring
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Tile and Laminate
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FAQ Hardwood Flooring

Wood flooring adds classic beauty and warmth to every room in your home. Pacific Hardwood Floors carefully plans every installation to ensure that it will uniquely complement your decor. The following guide is a good resource to learn about our wood flooring products and which will be the right choice for your home.

1. Manufacturers - Which manufacturers does Pacific Hardwoods use?
2. Composition - What are the basics of wood flooring?
3. Species - What types of wood are used to make flooring?
4. Appearance & Grades - How is the appearance of wood flooring graded?
5. Properties - How do the properties of wood affect the flooring's durability?
6. Cuts - How can wood be cut into flooring?
7. Finishes - What finishes are available?
8. Borders and Inserts - How are borders used to enhance wood flooring?
9. Hardwood Flooring Cleaning and Care - What Products should I use
    to clean my floors without contaminating them?

What Machines are required to Sand (or resand) A hardwood floor?

  A Floor Sander, Buffer

and Edger

1. Manufacturers and Products

Pacific Hardwood Floors provides only top quality materials for all of our projects. Here are the mills and manufacturers of flooring products that we use.

3M Abrasives
Bonakemi
Bruce Hardwood Floors
Bostik Findley Adhesives
Childs Millworks
DBM Rosewood
Duraseal Polyurethane
French Brown
Harris©Tarkett, Inc.
Hartco Flooring Company

Historic Floors of OshKosh, Inc.
Homeshow Floor Cleaners
Kentucky Wood Floors

Mannington Wood Floors
Medallion
Oconee Flooring
Powernail
Southern Wood Floors
Universal Floating Floors
Cork underlayment


2. Composition

Wood flooring can be made from solid wood or from wood veneers, glued together. It is available both with and without a finish. Unfinished flooring refers to a product that is first installed at the site without any finish. After installation, it must then be sanded and finished. Pre-finished flooring is sanded and finished at the factory. It only requires installation to be ready for use.

Solid wood flooring is made of solid lumber. It is available both unfinished and pre-finished. Solid wood flooring comes in several forms and sizes, including:

• STRIP - solid boards with thicknesses of 1/2" or 3/4" and widths of 1½", 2" or 2¼".
• PLANK - solid boards with thicknesses of 1/2" or 3/4" and widths of 3" to 8".
• PARQUET - patterns made from individual wood pieces

Engineered wood flooring is made by bonding thin layers of lumber with an attractive veneer finish. It also is available unfinished and pre-finished. Engineered wood flooring comes in the following forms and sizes:

• STRIP - engineered boards with thicknesses of 5/16", 3/8", 1/2" or 5/8" and widths of 2" or 2¼".
• PLANK - engineered boards with thicknesses of 5/16", 3/8", 1/2" or 5/8" and widths of 3" to 8".
• PARQUET - engineered wood tile patterns available in sizes of 9" x 9", 8" x 8" and other sizes.

Solid wood flooring vs. Engineered Wood Flooring:
Most solid wood strip or plank can only be installed with nails over a wood subfloor. Solid wood parquet and short length strip or plank can be installed with an adhesive on a variety of non-wood subfloors. Solid wood flooring is very susceptible to moisture and can not be used below grade, in areas such as basements, or in high-humidity environments.

Engineered flooring can be installed with adhesive on a variety of subfloors. Some engineered strip and plank can be installed with nails over wood subfloors. And some engineered flooring can be installed as a "floating" floor without fastening to the subfloor, by using a bonded tongue and groove technique(used to install over an existing vinyl floor). Engineered flooring is much less susceptible to the effects of moisture, and can be used below grade or in humid climates.

Acrylic impregnated wood flooring is a highly durable pre-finished product. A high-pressure process is used to saturate the wood with color pigment and acrylic resin. The result is an extremely hard finish that is very resistant to abrasion and moisture. Acrylic impregnated flooring is typically used in commercial applications, but it is also available for residential purposes. It comes in the same forms and styles as engineered flooring.

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3. Species

The following table list some of the more commonly used species for wood flooring. Although less known, other species are also available when a more interesting appearance is desired.

Domestic Species Imported Species
White Ash American Mahogany Cameron Merbau
Beech Maple Brazilian Cherry Padauk
Birch Bird's Eye Maple Australian Cypress Purpleheart
American Cherry Mesquite Doussie Sapele
Chestnut Red Oak Ipe Teak
Douglas Fir White Oak Iroko Wenge
Antique Heart Pine Yellow Pine Jarrah  
Virgin Heart Pine American Walnut Santos Mahogany  

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4. Appearance & Grades

Appearance of the wood flooring determines its grade. All grades are equally strong and serviceable.Oak and ash have four basic grades. Beech, Birch and Hard Maple have three basic grades. They are::

OAK GRADES
GRADE APPEARANCE DESCRIPTION
CLEAR Best Best grade, with the best appearance and most uniform color.
SELECT Good Limited character marks and unlimited sound sap.
NO. 1 COMMON Variegated Light and dark colors. Knots, flags, worm holes, and other character marks. Other imperfections must be filled and finished.
NO. 2 COMMON Rustic A serviceable, economical floor after knots, worm holes, checks and other imperfections are filled and finished. Red and white oak species may be mixed.

 

BEECH, BIRCH AND HARD MAPLE GRADES
GRADE APPEARANCE DESCRIPTION
FIRST Best Best grade, with the best appearance, natural color variation, limited character marks and unlimited sap.
SECOND Variegated Varying sound wood characteristics of species.
THIRD Rustic All wood characteristics of species.

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5. Properties

Hardness is a property of wood flooring that relates to its durability. Harder wood species are more durable and more resistant to wear. Dimensional Stability refers to a measure of how much wood expands or contracts with changes in temperature and humidity. The chart below lists hardness and dimensional stability for various wood species.

Domestic Species Hardness
(Janka)
Dimensional
Stability
Imported Species Hardness
(Janka)
Dimensional
Stability
Ash(White) 1320 Above
Average
Brazilian Cherry 2350 Average
Beech     Cypress (Australian)    
Birch     Jarrah    
Cherry (Black) 950 Above
Average
Mahogany (Santos) 2200 Above
Average
Douglas Fir     Merbau 1925 Excellent
Heart Pine (Antique) 1225 Above
Average
Padauk (African)    
Hickory/Pecan     Purpleheart    
Maple (Sugar/Hard) 1450 Average Teak (Thai/Burmese) 1000 Excellent
Mesquite     Wenge    
Oak (Red) 1290 Average      
Oak (White) 1360 Average      
Pine (Southern Yellow)          
Walnut (American Black) 1010 Excellent      

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6. Cuts

Several methods are used to cut raw wood logs into boards for flooring. Plain Sawing is the most common method. Because it makes the best use of the raw wood, plain sawing is the most cost-efficient method. However, variations and growth ring patterns are more noticeable.
Quarter Sawing and Rift Sawing cut the boards from the log in a different manner than plain sawing. These methods are more expensive because they waste more of the raw log. However, boards produce by these methods can be more dimensionally stable and can wear more evenly.
The Rotary Cut method is used to shear thin layers from the perimeter of raw logs. Most engineered wood floors are cut in this manner.

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7. Finishes

Lasting beauty requires minimal care with today's wood floor finishes. The right finish protects wood flooring from wear, dirt and moisture while giving the wood an attractive color and sheen. Today most wood floors are finished with a stain and a top coat. Technology has provided a wide selection of wood flooring finishes, each with its own distinct benefits and appearances.

Surface Finishes

Surface finishes are very popular today because they are durable, water-resistant and require minimal maintenance. Surface finishes are blends of synthetic resins. These finishes most often referred to as urethanes or polyurethanes remain on the surface of the wood and form a protective coating. They are generally available in high-gloss, semi-gloss, satin and matte. Any one of the surface finishes are appropriate for the kitchen.

There are basically four types of surface finishes:

  1. Oil-modified urethane is generally the most common surface finish and is easy to apply. It is a solvent-base polyurethane that dries in about 48 hours per coat. This type of finish ambers with age.

  2. Moisture-cure urethane is a solvent-base polyurethane that is more durable and more moisture resistant than other surface finishes. Moisture-cure urethane comes in non-yellowing and in ambering types and is generally available in satin or gloss. These finishes are extremely difficult to apply, have a strong odor and are best left to the professional. Drying time is about 20 hours per coat.

  3. Swedish finish or acid cure urethane is a clear and fast drying finish. It is durable and non-yellowing. It also has an extremely strong odor and should be applied by a highly skilled wood flooring professional.

  4. Water-based urethane is a waterborne urethane that dries by water evaporation. These finishes are clear and non-yellowing. They have a milder odor than oil-modified finishes have and they dry in about two to three hours. Foot traffic should be held off for 48 hours. Water-based urethanes are generally more expensive.

Penetrating Stain and Wax

Penetrating stains are used to alter the natural color of wood materials to suit the homeowner's taste. Colors can range from dark brown to off white, with the wood being stained and the finish used contributing to the final color. It is always wise to request a sample of what you select before the work is even started.

Paste wax finishes are not as common as they once were, but in certain instances the "patina" appearance will best suit the decor. They require more maintenance than urethane finishes; and new wax needs to be applied to the floors periodically as determined by use.

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8. Borders and Inserts and Inserts and Inserts

Adding a wood border as part of your floor design can make a simple statement or take on a sophisticated look. Borders can be selected from a single contrasting wood feature strip to a geometric border with multiple wood species in their natural colors. Borders can be designed to be either subtle or bold to suit your taste.
Our showroom has many borders to see, as well as brochures of borders that can be made to order specifically for you.

Also available are medallians and other inserts which could enhance a foyer, formal dining room or even an office reception. These medalians are either premanufactured for cost effectiveness or custom made to your specifications.

9. Hardwood Flooring Cleaning and Care

Polyurethane floors are very durable, but they require a cleaner that will contaminate the finish when you want to recoat the floor.

Waxes and silicates found in many commercial and consumer cleaners may make the floor look shiny, but will create 'fisheyes' when a recoat is performed. We recommend Homeshow Hardwood Floor cleaner which can be purchase on eBay. One 16 oz. bottle makes eight gallons of floor cleaner. Mix a cap full in an old Windex spray bottle and you have a ready to use floor cleaner with spray.

A damp mopping once a week along with an occasional broom sweeping will keep your floors looking great. After 5 to 10 years you may want to recoat in lieu of resanding your floor. The cost is minimal and will make your floor look brand new again!

 

 

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